After my old bike was stolen, I looked for another bike. Based on my experience with the previous bike, I knew I did not want an adjustable stem (these start creaking after a while) or a suspension seat post (there was not enough length to it to mount my rear light and reflector). I wanted to get another hybrid because of my familiarity with them, so I looked at a few bikes from the local stores. The 2010 Devinci Stockholm is the bike I finally decided to get. This page details my thoughts on it. I decided to write it up because there really was not much in the way of user experiences, reviews or other info on this bike when I bought it. Hopefully it will add another data point for anyone looking for information on this bike. Since I like to think that the new bike comes courtesy of the thief that stole my previous one, you can thank the thief for anonymously donating this review.
This page is based on one sample: my specific Stockholm and my own experiences with it. Therefore, this is only one data point. Keep this in mind if you are reading this as a review. All photos here depict my bike, which differs from the stock model by having bar ends, an add-on chain protector and lights / light mounts.
My Stockholm is pictured on the left (the stock model does not come with bar ends). The Stockholm is an entry level performance hybrid. The components and specifications are fairly average for a bike in this price range. The Stockholm has an aluminum frame, steel fork, Shimano Alivio shifters and rear derailleur, Shimano Altus front derailleur and cassette and the basic entry level Tektro brakes and brake levers. The bike came with 700 x 35 mm tires with a nice reflective side wall strip on each side for better visibility. There are three chain rings in front (48/38/28) and eight sprockets in the back (11 to 32 teeth) for a total of 24 speeds. The handlebars are risers with a gentle rise but I noticed that they are very wide (61 cm) compared to my other bikes. Although Devinci is a Canadian company, the bike is Made in Vietnam. The build quality seems fine.
Appearance-wise, the bike is mostly a charcoal gray (though not as dark as that of most cars) with a matte finish (there's no clear coat). This makes it look almost like it is anodized aluminum. I think it looks great. There are a few hints of yellow and black (handlebars, seat post, the inner circumference of the rims, cranks). There are no less than 18 Devinci logos on the bike: two on the seat post, two on the handlebars, two on the front forks, two on the seat stays, two on the seat tube, one on the head tube, two on the down tube, one on the saddle, two on the stem and two on the stemcap). To me, this is excessive. But luckily the logos are understated enough that they are not distracting.
Devinci does not list the weight of the Stockholm. A lot of manufacturers seem reluctant to list bike weights, because different sized frames have different weights and not every manufacturer will list the weight for the same sized bike. Cannondale, for example, states on their website that they used to list the weight for the medium frame of each model and after other manufacturers list the weight for the smallest frame in order to appear lighter, Cannondale stopped list the weight completely. Given that there are a finite number of sizes for each model, manufacturers should simply list the weight for every sized frame they have and call it a day. While it's true that by not listing the weight, they encourage you to visit the bike shop to see it for yourself (which you should do anyway), I find it a bit strange that it is one of the most frequently omitted but also one of the most frequently requested specs. Weight does not really matter all that much for this class of bike unless you are carrying it up and down the stairs a lot.
Anyway, my medium frame Stockholm with non-stock additions weighs in at under 13.6 kg (30 lbs). This is an overestimate of the weight as it includes my bar ends, water bottle holder, chainstay protector, bell and light mounts. I weighed it by weighing myself on a scale meant for weighing people and then weighing myself holding the bike on the same scale. I went to the doctor the next day and weighed myself on the scale there and it was within +/- 0.45 kg (1 lb) of the weight I measured on my scale at home. However, there is no guarantee that any of these scales are properly calibrated. Also, this is only for the medium frame.
Comfortable riding position. I can be fairly upright but without sitting straight up like a comfort hybrid. The combination of the stem angle, the length of the steering tube and the riser handle bars puts the grips about 2.5 cm above the saddle, which is perfect for me for city riding. Granted, this is not a fast position due to the potential for air resistance, but this is a hybrid not a road bike. I test rode a few other bikes and many had the handlebars too low. A stem swap and moving a few spacers down on the steering is certainly possible to adjust the position to be lower.
Nice look and finish. The paint job is pretty nice with no noticeable flaws. The lack of a clear coat finish is distinctive and gives a nice metallic look to the frame. The cables were routed neatly by the bike store with minimal cable rub locations.
Reflective sidewall stripe tires. While reflector and reflective stripes are no substitute for lights at night, they do help improve visibility. The Stockholm comes with tires that have reflective side wall stripes that are visible from the side and somewhat from the rear and front (but not head on or directly behind).
Shifters work well; easy to use. The Alivio shifters that come with the bike are pretty good: they are easy to access to switch gears. They are similar to the lower end Tourney shifters but are a bit more refined ergonomically. The shape and dimensions make the Alivio shifters easier to use.
The provided components work well. The provided set of components seem to be well chosen for this price range and I have not had any shifting, braking or other problems with them. I find the grips quite comfortable, the brakes are powerful enough and the derailleurs are smooth enough. I cannot comment on the rims and hubs because I do not know anything about what makes a good hub and what makes a good rim for bikes.
The brake levers are shorter than what I am used to. They are only as long as half the grip and so you cannot grip them with all of your fingers (not that you want to squeeze hard on them, which would flip the bike in short order as I learned with another bike). The problem I had with short levers is that when I am going downhill fairly fast on a rough road with potholes, it is more difficult to get a good grip on the levers to control my speed due to the vibration of the bike.
The front derailleur is the type that is behind the seat tube. This appears to leave very little room for fenders but I have not tried to put them in yet. A spacer nut is probably necessary at the chain stay bridge to have a chance to get the fender to clear the derailleur. Additionally, if you ride in gravel road the grit is deposited directly into the derailleur by the tires. On other bikes I have seen, the derailleur does not go behind the seat tube, leaving plenty of room.
There is a lack of clearance for my heel. If I am wearing slightly larger shoes, unless I position my foot just right, my heel can sometimes rub against the crank and even hit the chain stay. This is a geometry issue; if the pedals were slightly wider or the cranks were shaped differently, then this would not be a problem.
The wide handlebars seem to make the bar ends that I installed less comfortable. As mentioned before, the handlebars seem really long at 61 cm. I had a good experience with bar ends before on my department store bike but the bar ends on the Stockholm are far less comfortable due to the width. This is not a problem if you do not install bar ends and I think I am starting to get used to it.
I feel the included seat is too narrow to offer good support when sitting completely upright. The seat is OK if I do not sit completely upright and put some weight on the handlebars. If I sit completely upright and put all my weight on the seat, it is not comfortable. I need to look into getting a new seat. One thing to note is that the lifetime frame warranty from Devinci is void if you use a seat post other than that which was included with the bike. That strikes me as a bit unreasonable: what if someone stole your seatpost and saddle? More reasonable warranty terms would simply stipulate that you need to use a seat post of the same diameter.
There is a lot of chain slap. If I am on the middle or small chain ring, every time I go over a bump, the chain slaps against the chain stay. Even on the large chain ring, the slap happens often. This became annoying enough that I bought a Lizard Skin chain stay protector to pad the chain stay and eliminate the noise. It works well but does not look as good. By the way, the included chain stay protector, which is just a clear plastic sticker (like you see on all bikes), does not adhere properly to the chain stay. It is peeling off in the middle; this was the case from day one when I got it brand new from the store. This is due to the shape of the chain stay: it has a slight taper so you cannot get the sticker, which was generically designed for non-tapered chain stays, to conform to the shape.
The front brake can be squeaky. This is especially apparent as I slow down and then squeeze it. The bike store was unable to eliminate this when they prepared the bike for me. It happens infrequently enough that I do not mind. In fact, sometimes I deliberately cause it to squeak as a way to politely indicate to pedestrians that a bike is behind them on the multi-user-path.
Compared to my now stolen 2007 Norco Yorkville, the Devinci Stockholm feels a lot more high quality. Granted, the Yorkville is not the same class of bike as the Stockholm, but a comparison is still useful to put the Stockholm in context with another bike.
The Yorkville's paint chipped if you looked at it wrong, it was a bit rickety due to the adjustable stem (which works its way loose and you get odd clicks and pops when you put force on it) and the grips - which are not cylindrical but included a palm rest - kept rotating so that the palm rest is pointed at the ground. Very annoying. The Yorkville's Shimano Tourney rear derailleur had shifting problems during the first week out of the shop and I had to take it back multiple times to fix it. I eventually had to replace it with a Shimano Deore before the problems went away.
In contrast, the Stockholm is solid, with no creaking or popping or any other weird sounds except for the chain slap issue. I have not actually allowed anything to scratch the paint so I cannot comment on how durable it is but as I said before, the paint job is almost flawless whereas the Norco had chips in it from day one. So far the grips have stayed in place and the shifting is still working very well after about 250 km. I have not had to get it adjusted yet.
Ride is about the same; bumpy roads feel bumpy since both bikes have 700 x 35 mm tires. I think the Yorkville feels a bit less of the road in the handlebars but I could be wrong since I obviously no longer have both bikes to compare and I have been riding a new route. The Stockholm lacks the suspension seat post but I do not notice any difference at all. I think the Stockholm is faster as I have been beating all my old times with it; it could just be the fact that I am riding more with this new bike. One thing to note is that the highest rear sprockets on the Yorkville is 14 teeth (which seems standard for 7 speed cassettes used on hybrids), while on the Stockholm the highest 3 sprockets are 15, 13 and 11 teeth. This means that the two highest gears are slightly harder to pedal than the highest gear on the Yorkville given the same gears on the chain rings. As a result of the higher gears, it is possible to push harder on the Stockholm than the Yorkville. The highest gear on the Stockholm also feels grindy due to the fact that the angle subtended by each tooth gets larger the fewer teeth you have; this is not a problem but an observation that I investigated briefly.
All in all, the Devinci Stockholm is a lot better than the Norco Yorkville.
This is a better bike than my previous ones, but it has several issues that I did not like. I like the way it looks and it rides very well in an urban environment. There are some minor issues with geometry and component clearance that detract from my overall opinion of the bike but all in all, I like it. The Stockholm is not a fast bike (compared to road bikes; it at least feels faster than the Norco Yorkville I had) and the upright position gives a lot of wind resistance. But hybrid bikes are designed for an upright ride, so this is a feature. As I get better at cycling, I would probably benefit from the drop bars of a road or cyclocross bike in order to go faster and that is the type of bike I will get next. But the Stockholm seems very suitable for around the city riding. If fenders fit in spite of the placement of the front derailleur, then it could make a good commuting bike.
Discussion
The paint job is outstanding. We (ok, the bike shop) had no difficulty adding fenders to the Stockholms. They fit and work great.
I have had a Norco and Peugeot mountain bikes in the past. The ride of these hybrids in nearly every type of surface is far greater.
We have about 1,000 kms on each of the Stockholms to this point with little problems. We can't wait to ride them again and again.
Thanks for the review. You are correct, it is very hard to find any type of detailed reveiw. I was glad to read yours.
Mark
information on Devinci's BUT have enjoyed mine so far - although too early to develop any
perceptions. bought a Devinci Liverpool - basically as Stockholm with discs.
Provides about the same feel as an old Raleigh Record I've owned since approx 1974,
but for sure I expect some measure of improved comfort and performance with "rapid-fire"
shifting and the effortless braking.
Any information or feedback you care to offer with regards to perhaps softening-up
the ride would be appreciated. I didn't want to purchase a comfort-hybrid due to the
upright position - but short of releasing some of the tire pressure, I think I may have
to look into some sort of suspension seat-post. I have seen a variety of comments about
seat-posts - it would be nice if Devinci had something to offer.
Just watch out if you want to replace the seat post - the warranty agreement that came with my Stockholm said that the frame warranty was void if you used a seat post other than the one that came with the bike.
1. carbon seatpost + gel saddle
2. fatter front tire, adjust psi
3. new handle grips, perhaps gloves also
4. swerve around bumps when you can see them
The seatpost warranty issue is stupid. Just put the old seatpost back in before any warranty claim. Suspension anything on paved roads means losing pedal power. I would advise against one.
Thank you for your detailed review; today we (me and my wife) bought two DeVinci Stockholm and enjoyed them a lot; our impressions are very fresh and we made a comparison with our previous bikes, that were bought at Canadian Tire (that says enough about them).
I don't like the relatively small chainrings/cluster arrangement on the Stockholm, as it means faster cog/chainring/chain wear and probably more friction. I also didn't like the uneven cog ratios on the Milano's cluster, so we had an evenly spaced one installed.
btw, you shouldn't use the chain at the extreme angles possible. A 24-speed really doesn't have 24 speeds available.
I do like the bottom bracket height, which is lower than the mountain bike height common on some hybrids.
As for heel clearance with the chainstays, the Milano, which I believe is the same frame as the Stockholm, has at least 1cm more of this clearance than my Yokota.
We had fenders installed on the Milano, and they fit behind the front derailler ok. They touch, but that's ok.
I have a 2-piece, non-adjustable stem on the Yokota, and it creaks like crazy. I plan to have an adjustable stem, like the Milano's, installed on the Stockholm.
I too dislike the typical current wide handlebars, and I reduced the bars on the Yokota by 3". The Stockholm's handlebars are the same width as other similar bikes I measured. I don't know why they're so wide. Vastly wider than dropped bars, they make the bikes clumsy to store and you don't need such wide bars for steering. I'm hoping it isn't too difficult to remove the handgrips so I can narrow the Stockholm's bars.
Chain slap would be due to general frame stiffness and high tire pressures, combined with a weak derailler return spring when using smaller cogs on the back. Not much that can be done about it other than not using the small/small combinations. Clear protective film made for cars should work well to protect the chainstay.
The Milano's seat, same as on the Stockholm, strikes me as narrow enough, but too squishy. An overly soft seat will result in chafing and sores on long, hot rides.
Lastly is the color choice. The Stockholm is also made in a bright red, which would be my preference for greater visibility.
I'm concerned that I'll find the Stockholm too stiff for extensive use on gravel roads, and that the funny tubes won't fit properly in our car's bike rack.
I hardly ever use gravel roads. I was able to put the bike into a rear bike rack on my car. It fits fine but the rear brake cable and the braze-on for it can get in the way and needs to be positioned correctly.
I believe the bright red color, which I also like, was made available in the 2011 model.
The store said that all comparable bikes at this price point lack the Devinci's stainless steel spokes, double-wall rims and sealed bottom bracket. So I guess they have to cut corners somewhere.
So this means changing the crankset, without upsetting the high-strung Shimano drivetrain components. At this point I still don't know how this can be resolved.
I was hoping to install a 13-34 cluster, but the only outer cog available is the 11, and the largest one is 32.
I was willing to pay more to get a Devinci hybrid with the S3 frame, but anything above the Stockholm has carbon fibre forks. Given how we use our bikes, there's a great risk of gouging the forks, which would lead to failure or costly replacement. This includes them jammed and rubbing together on car racks. All you need is for a bolt on one bike to rub against the carbon fork on another.
The store said they'd shorten the handlebars for me - said they do it all the time on new bikes. Besides the ajdustable stem, I'm also getting a firmer saddle than the one that comes on the Stockholm. Plus a rear rack. I'll install the fenders, mirror, bottle cage, saddlebag and toe clips from my old bike.
- different crankset with replaceable chainrings and both higher and lower ranges
- different cluster to provide lower gears
- saddle with less padding, and grey, not white
- adjustable stem
- handlebars narrowed by 3"
- extensive application of clear transparent film
- toe clips, bottle cage, fenders, rear rack, saddlebag, mirror, light brackets
Chainrings are 22-48 on the front, and cogs are 11-32 on the back. This is a ridiculously wide range of gears, but component selection was inadequate to achieve something between this and the stock setup.
Though it is counterintuitive, a more deeply padded saddle will cause more discomfort and tissue damage over long rides than a harder one.
Saddlebag is a Carradice Carradura Maxi.
Rear rack has a spring clip for quickly securing small loads.
Fitting the rear fender took hours. I had to make custom brackets for the seatstay and chainstay bolt positions, and used a heat gun to make a divot in the fender to fit around the front changer. The front changer on my daughter's Milano is different and does not stick out in the way as far. The store confirmed that their mechanics have a hard time putting rear fenders on the Stockholms.
I was a little shocked when I went to raise the handlebars and found this new-fangled setup that prevents doing so. Instead I had to pivot the adjustable stem, which moved the bars both up and closer. But I think I like this new position.
I applied thin transparent protective film to the sides of most of the tubes. We often carry our bikes on car racks, and doing so is notorious for damaging paint on the bikes. I can instead just replace the film. This film is typically applied to cars, where a heat gun is used to shape it to complex surfaces. I did this to fit the film to, for instance, the rounded shoulder of the front forks.
The shifters work really nicely, although it will take time to get used to the fact the action of the levers is reversed between the front and rear changers.
I found I can go down two gears with one longer push on the lever for the rear changer. Changing gears is so easy I shift it one gear at a time, whereas with the older bike's long-throw twist-grip setup, shifting was so awkward I typically shifted two gears at a time. I haven't noticed chain slap.
The brakes are so effective I have to be careful not to lock up the rear wheel. They don't squeak on mine.
Equipped the same as the much less costly bike it replaced, the Stockholm seems a bit heavier. The steel chainrings, metal pedal frames, and adjustable stem contribute to this.
The bike rides really solidly. However, on gravel it definitely jitters around more than the old chrome-moly frame bike. It may have higher tire pressure than I typically use, and certainly a touring load will smooth it out somewhat.
I like the contoured handlebar grips. But I find the shift levers interfere with my grip on the handgrips. To be far enough inboard to use the brakes properly means the shift levers are in the way. I've moved the levers away from the grips. However, because I had the bars narrowed, moving the shifters more than 1/4" away from the grips won't work because the clamps for the shifters then interfere with the bend in the bars.
I find the short brake levers long enough because virtually all my braking grip force comes from the first two fingers anyway.
I have one crooked ankle that forces my foot to pronate. On some bikes I have to add a spacer to move the pedal out from the crank to accommodate this, but I have not needed to on the crankset side of the Stockholm.
I think it looks quite nice with the red frame, white accents, and black and silver components.
All in all I'm very happy with it, and look forward to some long rides.
The bike's stiffness means it efficiently translates pedal effort into moving forward. I expect this improved efficiency will more than make up for it being a little heavier than the bike it replaces. At high speeds, the solid ride is very reassuring.
One of the front forks had a small, shallow dent in it. Since the paint was not marred, this may have happened before it was painted. The paint is flawless.
The spring clip on the rear rack is not permanently attached. It clips onto the base rack. It also comes off if you pull on the clip just a certain way. The second time it came off, it thwacked my thumb hard, like a big rat trap. I've used black tie-wraps to secure the clip assembly to the rack.
All fender stay braces have had the excess length cut off, to save weight and dangerous protrusions.
For some reason, the inside diameter of the handlebars is smaller than the alloy bars on my old bike, so I had to file down the clamp that attaches my mirror into the end of the handlebar. I also had to add a spacer inside the clamp for the bell.
I'm trying to track down plastic or rubber inserts for the bosses I don't use. Filling them with the screws provided adds weight and more things to damage other bikes on bike racks.
I added a spoiler thingy inside the nose of the front fender. This helps prevent water thrown off the front wheel from ending up back on me and the bike. Similarly, there is a front fender flap made from anti-freeze jug plastic.
A 2500' climb on the bike the other day revealed a clicking noise in one pedal. Either there's a ball missing, or the bearing is adjusted too tight.
I had to put the shifter levers back where they were on the handlebar. Neither shifter worked perfectly after moving the levers only 1/4". Maybe some time I'll try again but also try adjusting them to compensate for the move. They must be extremely precisely adjusted.
On the long climb, the nice flattish palm rests on the handgrips became wet from sweat and slippery. They're too large and smooth for sweat to go anywhere or evaporate. I suppose one is expected to wear gloves, but on a climb such as that, gloves are needed only for the descent.
With a 118 inch top gear, I could pedal all the way back down the mountain road. I've always coasted down that hill because the other bikes I've used never had gearing that high. The Stockholm felt solid at high speed.
Devinci's hybrid line apparently has been around for at least 10 years, and they've continued to make changes. For instance, the person who sold me the bike said the early carbon forks on the fancier models were basically a failure and had to be redesigned. The more recent ones are said to be fine.
I received a Carradice Carradura Maxi saddle bag from England. Very fast shipping, very nice bag. The black/red bag matches the bike. I thought I'd need loops that bolt to the seat rails to attach the bag. The Carradice loops are expensive, and have to be bent to fit. I had a set from my old bike, but broke one while bending it. The Viva Bag Loops look much more suitable and tough, but one supplier wanted more $$ for shipping than the tiny loops cost, and the other supplier was out of stock. So I found the bag fits just fine without the loops.
I salvaged and reused just about everything but the seat, seatpost, rims, brakes and changers (mostly worn out) from the Yokota. The Yokota had DT double-butted stainless steel spokes with precise lengths and varying gauges, that just happen to be the same length as the Stockholm's spokes. So when I need to replace the Stockholm's rims, I'll build new wheels using the nicer DT spokes. The Yokota's unused parts have gone to a community bike store, and frame has gone to be recycled. How appropriate.
The Amsterdam's front derailleur is different than yours and has much more room for fenders, but the cables interfere with all center mount kickstands that I have tried so far. The cables rub on the underside of a kickstand bracket and also against the bolt on the top side of a kickstand bracket because this center opening is just a bit too small.
Thanks again for all your thoughts. It was very helpful.